Jeremy Flores, one of Europe’s most accomplished surfers, has revealed the harrowing journey he faced after retiring from professional competition in 2021, when he was diagnosed with a brain tumour. His story is now the focus of a new documentary, Dos au mur (“Backs to the Wall”), which premiered in Paris on Wednesday.
Flores, who is widely regarded as the most successful male European surfer in history, retired from a 15-year career on the professional circuit that included four championship tour wins. However, what came next tested him in ways the ocean never had.
“I told myself it was time to talk about it,” Flores told AFP. “I needed to get it off my chest, to send a message to my children and others who might need it. This was clearly the hardest ordeal of my life.”
A Sudden and Devastating Diagnosis
Born on Reunion Island, a surfing hotspot in the Indian Ocean, Flores grew up immersed in the sport, coached by his father from the age of three. Despite his natural talent, he was also known for a fiery temper, humorously admitting in the documentary, “I think I’ve got the most fines on the professional tour.”
Flores retired in 2021 after the birth of his second child, citing persistent migraines, exhaustion, and lack of motivation. Soon after, medical tests revealed a brain tumour at the base of his brain — one that many surgeons initially deemed inoperable.
“The news shattered me,” Flores said. “It explained why I wasn’t feeling my best.”
Brain tumour survival rates remain low, with only about a third of patients living beyond five years, although outcomes improve for younger patients.
The Fight to Recover
Flores’s fate changed in 2022 when pioneering neurosurgeon Hugues Duffau performed brain surgery in Montpellier, with Flores awake during the procedure. The operation was successful, but the road to recovery was daunting.
“I had to relearn how to speak, write, and read,” Flores recalled. “I suffered significant memory loss. My children had become strangers to me.”
Support from his wife, Hinarani de Longeaux — a former Miss Tahiti and model — as well as the surfing community, proved crucial. Among those who stood by him was Kelly Slater, a longtime friend and rival, who kept in close contact throughout.
Coaching a New Generation
Just over a year after surgery, Flores was invited to coach the French surfing team at the 2024 Olympic Games in Teahupo’o, Tahiti — a place he once called home. The team featured his sister-in-law Vahine Fierro and rising star Kauli Vaast.
Flores inspired the squad to remarkable success: Fierro claimed the 2024 Tahiti Pro title, Johanne Defay earned Olympic bronze in the women’s shortboard, and Vaast won gold in the men’s shortboard.
“It was truly special, the highlight of my career,” Flores said. “He’s like a little brother to me, and passing on knowledge feels like a cycle.”
Moving Forward Despite the Tumour
Now three years post-operation, Flores says his memory is slowly improving, though the tumour remains and requires ongoing monitoring with regular MRIs.
“You have to keep an eye on its size, take it seriously, but above all, you have to keep moving forward,” he reflected calmly.
Flores’s journey from champion surfer to cancer survivor and coach highlights resilience in the face of overwhelming adversity — a story of hope for his family and beyond.